Barbarian Days

Winner Of The Pulitzer Price And William Hill Sports Book Of The Year: Barbarian Days Is A Deeply Rendered Self-Portrait Of A Lifelong Surfer Looking For Transcendence That Recalls Early James Salter (Geoff Dyer, Observer)Surfing Only Looks Like A Sport. To Devotees, It Is Something Else Entirely: A Beautiful Addiction, A Mental And Physical Study, A Passionate Way Of Life.New Yorker Writer William Finnegan First Started Surfing As A Young Boy In California And Hawaii. Barbarian Days Is His Immersive Memoir Of A Life Spent Travelling The World Chasing Waves Through The South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa And Beyond. Finnegan Describes The Edgy Yet Enduring Brotherhood Forged Among The Swell Of The Surf; And Recalling His Own Apprenticeship To The WorldS Most Famous And Challenging Waves, He Considers The Intense Relationship Formed Between Man, Board And Water.Barbarian Days Is An Old-School Adventure Story, A Social History, An Extraordinary Exploration Of One ManS Gradual Mastering Of An Exacting And Little-Understood Art. It Is A Memoir Of Dangerous Obsession And Enchantment.Reading This Guy On The Subject Of Waves And Water Is Like Reading Hemingway On Bullfighting; William Burroughs On Controlled Substances; Updike On Adultery. . . . A Coming-Of-Age Story, Seen Through The Gloss Resin Coat Of A Surfboard Sports Illustrated